The Dougga ruins It is one of the best archaeological sites of Tunisia. They are 6 kilometers from the town of Téboursouk and it is quite easy to get there from the capital by public transport. It is a full day excursion, since there is a while from Tunisia. However, in our case getting there ended up looking like an episode of Beijing Express. Ready? Let's go there.
At six in the morning the alarm rang. Well, correction: it rang at five o'clock because I didn't remember to delay mobile time (because in Tunisia it is an hour less than in Spain). So we keep sleeping until six. Quick shower, breakfast and at seven in the morning we were in a taxi towards the TGM train station in La Marsa (5 min / 2.5 dinars). We got on the train and went to the end of the line in Tunis Marine (45 min / 0.7 dinars). There we walked a few meters to the tram station (single ticket 0.45 dinars). We take the line 3 to the station Bab Saadoun, we go down and wait for the tram of the line 4 on the same platform and then get off at the next stop: Bouchoucha (You have to pronounce it "Boushousha" so that they understand you when you buy the subway ticket).
Buses and louage (shared vans) that are going to Téboursouk They leave from the North Station (Gare du Nord). The tram passes in front, but for about 300 meters beyond. We arrived at the station at 8.45 in the morning and at the box office they told us that the next bus was leaving at 10. The Lonely Planet says that one leaves every hour, but it is not. Not to wait so long, we went to look for the louage which leads to Téboursouk.
In front of the bus station there is an infinite amalgam of vans that come and go. All are white with a red stripe and 99% have the destination written only in Arabic. But do not suffer, ask and they will quickly tell you which one you are looking for. The price of the bus ticket to Téboursouk costs 6 dinars and that of louage 5.8. The problem of louage is that they do not leave until they are completely filled. In each louage 8 passengers fit and, unfortunately, that day Téboursouk was not a destination with much demand. Even so, the van finally filled up at 9.50, just ten minutes before the bus departure time. However, the advantage of louage is that it is much faster than the bus.
An hour and forty minutes later, we arrived at the small town of Téboursouk, but we still had 6 kilometers to reach the ruins. Just get off the louageWe were approached by a guy who offered to take us there and then bring us back at the agreed time for 20 dinars. In the guide said 15, but he did not want to lower the price and it seemed to me like abuse. While we were thinking about it, we went to a small grocery store to buy something cool to drink. The clerk explained very kindly that we could go by taxi for about 2 or 3 dinars (it was not clear to me if it was per person). Then the boy, seeing that his possible clients escaped, approached to mark territory. The clerk advised us to tell the boy what price we wanted to pay and told him that between 5 or 10 only for the outward journey. However, the guy did not want to lower the price in any way, even when the clerk told him he was dumb to not want to access. In the end, we told him not to worry, that we would walk away and we did so. When we had traveled 100 meters short, an official taxi (yellow and with two people inside who got off in a few minutes) stood by whose taxi driver agreed to leave us in the ruins for 6 dinars and also gave us the phone number by If we wanted to call him back. The road to the ruins is slightly steep and passed through a beautiful spring landscape, so we decided that on the way back we would walk down, since it would be all down.
Finally, we arrive at the entrance of archaeological site of Dougga, located on top of a hill, and we got out of the car. We paid the entrance of 5 dinars, plus 1 photographic permit and we traveled the path that led to the other side of the hill. Suddenly, on our left, a beautiful Roman theater with the stands and the stage was very well preserved, although they may have been restored for the classical theater festival held every year in July. We climb to the top of the stands and enjoy the views of the charming green landscape of the Kalled Valley. Then we continue on until we contemplate the ruins of saturn temple, whose five columns can be seen in the profile of the hill on the way to Dougga.