Europe

Hiking in the Ebro Delta: from the Ecomuseum to Fangar Bay

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This article could also be titled "the worst signposted path of Catalonia", but let's go by parts. This summer we decided to make one of the final stages of the Santiago's road and, for training, we have been trying to walk a lot for weeks, either by city or hiking. We wanted to make another stretch of round road along the Costa Brava, but, as we always pulled to the north, this time we decided to head south.

It turns out that two hours drive from Barcelona is one of the most impressive natural sites in Catalonia: the natural park of the Ebro Delta. And there we went to spend a weekend. On Sunday morning we wanted to do one of the three itineraries that we found in the tourist office, which goes from the Ecomuseum to the Fangar. The route is 17 kilometers, which is what we will normally walk at each stage of the Camino, it is a circular route, the ground is flat and the landscape unique, so we set off with much optimism.

It seemed that it would be easy

We parked the car near the Ecomuseum, in an open field at the end of the street. It is better to leave the car in the parking lot of the supermarket Day. It was a Sunday at half past nine in the morning and the Ecomuseum was still closed, because they open at ten. From there we had to go to the cemetery of Deltebre and turn right. As soon as we started we found the first obstacle: there were no indications to reach the cemetery. Right? Left? Luckily, a very kind gentleman on a bicycle passed by who told us that we had to go back to the main road, cross it and walk for a few minutes.

Upon arriving at the cemetery, we were reassured to find a sign that indicated the route we had to follow. At last! So, we followed the path and, a few minutes later, we discovered a new sign that confirmed that we were on the right track. However, after this we no longer find any indication. We continue the march hoping to see some other indication. According to the brochure where the route was indicated with a very basic map, theoretically we had to go through a typical delta booth, then follow the road to the road that connects the town of L'Ampolla with the Marquesa beach, cross it, and Then follow a dirt road.

Typical Barraca of the Delta de l'Ebre

However, when we reached the road we found that in front there was only a huge private estate and no dirt trail that started from there. So we consulted Google Maps and told us to continue walking along the road towards the beach.

This stretch was pretty cool

Walking, walking, we found a typical delta barracks which can be rented, with a pond with swans next door. Would that be the typical delta house we had to find? Or would it be a very small white house we had seen a few kilometers ago? We couldn't be sure, so we kept walking on the road, praying for choosing the right path. A few kilometers later, we found an indication of the route, but interestingly, it was facing the opposite direction to the one marked on the map.

We believe that it was the signal that indicated that we had to cross the road and continue along the dirt path that I have mentioned previously. But seeing the signs in the opposite direction, we thought it was the return route, so we decided to continue walking along the road that goes to the Marquesa beach. We continue walking a few kilometers without knowing if we were on the right track. To get out of doubt, we asked an older man who was riding with a small motorcycle, and he told us that we were going in the opposite direction to the one that marked the map, towards the rocket booth.

At that time we decided not to retrace the path and how much it gave in what sense we were following the route, since we had gone for a walk and enjoy the delta. We followed the directions of the Google Maps GPS and headed towards the take off from Rompent. Once we got there, we continue along the dirt road that borders the Fangar Bay until you reach Port d'illa de Mar. In this section we saw fishermen who came from fishing and mussels installed in the sea.

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